Friday, February 19, 2010

Chiclayo day 2

I switched hostels today and went over to the Hotel Sican.  They are the same price but include a continental breakfast.  After my success yesterday with the colectivos I decided to do the same thing today and visit the other two sites I want to see, the Tecume Pyramids and the Tumbas Reales de Sipan.
I took the collectivo to Lambayeque and the Museo Tumbas reales was incredible! I spent almost 3 hours there marvelling at the museum displays. The whole museum is dedicated to the discovery of The Lord of Sipán who was a very important Mochican warrior priest and ruler.
Huaca Rajada depiction


The tomb was found in Huaca Rajada by Dr. Walter Alva in 1987 were he discovered a great quantity of gold and silver objects, jewels, ceramics and carved wood. This investigation gave archaeologists the chance to know many more aspects of the Mochican Culture.  The museum is laid out so you can see the whole process the archeologists went through as they uncovered the Lord of Sipan layer by layer.  The museum is laid out like part of the pyramid and you go up a ramp, entering the top, and working your way down uncovering the layers of the excavation just as the archeologists did.

The first thing they found in the main tomb with the Lord of Sipan was a guard, the skeleton of a young man with a golden shield and his feet cut off, sacrificed to guard the Lord in the afterlife. 
In the main tomb, "El Señor de Sipán" (The Lord of Sipan), was found in a sarcophagus made of wood (the first wooden sarcophogus found in America), next to his head were the skeletons of two young women, and at his sides a skeleton of a dog and two lamas.

A gold Collar
A collar with ten felines in gold with shell teeth

He was all covered with gold, silver and copper, chest protector with jewels and gold necklaces. His skull rested on a big golden plate. The amount of gold and the incredible craftsmanship were astounding!  He was buried with six ear plugs made of gold and turquoise.  He had six or eight breast plates made of coral beads, a death mask and a head dress all made of gold and superbly crafted.  One of the most interesting things was a golden collar of 10 faces that were spiders on a web, all made of gold.

Very close to this tomb in Huaca Rajada, in 1989, investigators of the Brüning Museum discovered the tombs of "El Sacerdote" (The Priest), and the tomb of "El Viejo Señor de Sipán" (The Old Lord of Sipan).  His tomb, with all of its accompanying object and layout were also in the museum.  It was not nearly as splendid but it was also pretty incredible!
Simple native fare
After the museum, on the same property, there were exhibits of modern Mochica pottery, weaving, print-making and food.  Of course, I had to try the food which was ceviche, corn pancakes, potato fritters and chicha, a fermented corn beverage. 
Model of how Tecume looked
How it looks now
recovered stonework
I next found another colectivo to Tecume.  In Tucume Peru, there are 26 pyramids that once were likely part of a major center of culture for the Lambayeque, Sican, Chimu and Inca peoples, all of which inhabited the region at different times. These pyramids are known as Purgatory, and the valley in which they are found is generally known as the Valley of the Pyramids.  All of the pyramids were made of adobe so, they have eroded pretty badly by this time.   
It´s hot out here!

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